Gokarna after the crowds leave

Come in late October, the week after the monsoon lifts and before the Goa overflow arrives. Om Beach had maybe fifteen people on it.

Walk the headland path from Kudle to Half Moon to Paradise. It takes two hours and you will have to wade once. Half Moon has one shack, one cat and the best fish thali I had on the coast.

Beach hut: ₹700 a night. Temple town in the morning, beaches in the afternoon — that is the whole plan and it is enough.